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One learned that the south Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of fiery, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams waxy potatoes, chopped into 4cm chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic pieces, prepared and minced
2½cm piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml neutral oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Add the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a sizable container with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Beat all the sauce elements in a container. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, topped with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.